Taxonomy/Origins: Eastern Africa mainly in open scrubland.
Subspecies: There are no subspecies that I am aware of.
Plumage Colouration: Male & Female (35cm with tail) Head nape and upper back metallic green. Wings rump and upper top tail surface metallic blue/purple. Upper chest (bib area) violet. Remainder of the chest and lower abdomen down to past the vent is vivid yellow, tops of legs (above knee) are also covered in these yellow feathers. Beak and legs are very dark. Iris is a bright white colour, this is dulled in young birds.
Sexing: Monomorphic i.e both sexes are identical. In addition mature females sing as well as males. I have been told that males have larger heads but the pair I was sold a pair on this basis both turned out to be females. I use DNA sexing from blood.
Feeding: These are highly insectivorous by nature. The diet I feed reflects this fact, with the birds getting large numbers of mealworms, waxmoth larvae and crickets on a daily basis. I also give some mealworms in the early evening. I feed a good quality softbill mix (bephar) which I grind prior to feeding to get rid of the larger bits, this seems to reduce wastage. Into this I mix copped boiled egg, grated cheese and carrot. I only provide the birds with what they can eat before the next feed. As the breeding season approaches I feed more livefood. I also have a compost heap (vegetable matter only) in their summer flight which I feel provides a good cue for breeding in terms of the amount and variety of livefood available. I offer a wide vaiety of fresh friut (pear, apple, Kiwi) this is offered throughout the year, although it is not taken in great quantities.
Housing: Royal Starlings are reported to be particularly susceptible to gapeworm. With this in mind I would design their outside (summer) flight as covered, which will reduce the chance of wild birds passing this parasite on. I would also provide a shingle flooring this will allow you to hose down aviary floor regularly thus ensuring that any gapeworm eggs in the droppings are washed away. I would not cluter the flight as these birds spend a large amount of time on the ground. In addition a very clutered flight might lead to damage of their beutiful tails. They do not like the wet and cold so they should be moved inside at the start of the winter and proved heat and extended lighting.
Breeding: I should point out that I have not had these birds long enough to have a full season with them. I have however collected a lot of data from various sources and can tell you what I plan to do this coming season. If breeding is the aim then it is best to house a pair to a flight. If you have related young from previous seasons then you may try to adding young in with the parents as in the wild they have been reported to be co-operative breeders. Only try this if the parents and young have been kept together since the previous season. For nest boxes the best choice is a parakeet size or a log with a hole in it. In order to give them a little more seclusion I would screen the nest sites with some sort of evergreen. Hens will lay upto 6 eggs with the incubation period being 14 days. Parents will need a large amount of livefood in order to rear successfully. In the early days after hatching small crickets, white mealworms and waxmoth larvae should be provided. In addition place some horse dung in the flight to attract flies, Royal Starlings often take flying insects.
Hints/tips: In order to encourage birds to take grated carrot I use red Leicester cheese. After introducing this cheese the carrot goes just as well!
Unique Characteristics: I would not recommend these birds for beginners. I do think that they provide a challenge for someone with softbill experience.
Feel free to get in touch with any further questions.
Matt Walters: m.walters@imperial.ac.uk
